La Sartiglia
21 It’s dawn and the city is already awake. A glance at the sky, the clouds are not scary. Irrespective if it rains or not, the horsemen will compete: this is what the old ritual dictates and all the children, in particular those belonging to the Guilds, have been told so.They are the first to be surprised, even before the tourists. Amazed by the last preparations, they stare at them open- mouthed looking at the harnessed horses, the endless variety of masks, the sequence of rites that they possibly do not understand but sense them as sacred and unforgettable. Every year is the same old story and their staring conceals a burning desire to be, one day, part of it. They wish to become the main protagonists. The other people, the adults, have the task to demonstrate their skills and experience as well as their traditional gestures and a certain authority. A vibrant tension fills them. This is the strength coming from a perfect ceremony, sacred, as though its festive features. It is Carnival time. Today, on Sunday, and then on Shrove Tuesday there will be “Su Componidori”´s dressing ceremony. People will enjoy processions, galloping, the “pariglie” race and banquets. These are the colourful shades of the “Sartiglia”, a timeless spectacle with two specular days as always, undoubtedly since 1546, maybe even earlier. These days have an unmistakable pace and a typical sound, which fills them from morning till night. Trumpet blasts and rolls of drums echo endlessly all day long marking every single moment. These sounds announce, remark, exalt. Trumpeters and drummers wearing black or white “gags” and masks are a deafening peaceful marching army. Every blast or roll is sound affecting the mysteries of the “Sartiglia” with its expected stages, climaxes and meaningful present or past gestures. Today those sounds echo from the very first moments to accompany “Su Componidori” to the President of the Guild’s house. Who is it? The elected one, already appointed on February 2nd,on Candlemas Day. The past left us many names, above all in recent times, but nothing was said about their “nomination”. Mothers tell young children everything used to happen with lots of discretion. The President of the Guild headed for the chosen horseman’s house almost like a thief in the middle of the night. It was a moment full of intimacy, a cherished appointment. Nowadays things have changed, but the formal invitation ceremony is still vivid with its official “su prexeri” request quote. Of course, that is a mutual favour. It is such a great honour for the chosen horseman but even greater for all the citizens. Everything happens on Candlemas Day when “Su Componidori” is given a blessed candle. Talking to the members of the Guilds, it is clear these first stages are the most heartfelt. That is when the two ancient corporations reflect the uniqueness of this rite, renewing every year the birth of a communion with the deity. Now “Su Componidori” waits for his dressing. There is not a large crowd attending, strangers are politely excluded. It is a private intimate ceremony. Christian and Pagan traditions are summed up in a few deep gestures.The soul of a city, its history and future the “Sartiglia” symbolically anticipates with good omen.
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